Is there a difference in the ease of seasoning cast iron, forged iron, and carbon steel?
I have a forged iron pan, and I used linseed oil to season it in the oven. The resulting seasoning peels in places. Also, it is not really non-stick, once food burns even a little, it is stuck to the seasoning irreversibly. I removed and renewed the seasoning 2-3 times, but it didn't get better.
Is forged iron harder to season than cast iron, or is it just bad seasoning technique? Also, is it easier or harder to season carbon steel when compared to cast iron or forged iron?
Best Answer
I can't speak authoritatively, but I do have all three types and have had good luck with my seasonings, so I'll share what I do.
For cast iron, I use solid vegetable fat exclusively (Crisco). I did the original seasoning by coating it in fat and baking in the oven. To clean it, I use salt, Crisco and a paper towel to get any food bits off. I then get the pan hot and wipe it down with a little more Crisco. It's not PTFE nonstick, but pretty good.
For my forged iron DeBuyer fry pan, I followed the manufacturer's recommendation for initial seasoning: put enough oil in the pan (I use canola) to coat the bottom. Heat to smoking. I swirled the hot oil around to coat the sides a bit. Let it cool, pour and wipe out the oil.
The thing I've found is it takes quite a bit of use to develop the seasoning. Here's a picture after about a month's use - note how dark the sides are getting (the bottom is less dark because I learned a green scrubby pad (Scotch-Brite) will remove the seasoning entirely. Oops!).
I did some scrambled eggs for the sake of science, without adding any extra oil to the pan. They behaved as nicely as any PTFE coated pan I've ever used.
Today the entire bottom of the pan is that rich mahogany color, and a fried egg slides around in it like one of those goofy AS SEEN ON TV ads.
EDIT: Used the pan for over easy eggs this morning and snapped a new picture. This is about 3 months after the last photo.
Normally I can just wipe it out with a paper towel. If I've been cooking bacon or something that left residue, I'll run water into the pan while it's still ripping hot, then wipe it out gently with a sponge.
After that I heat the pan up and add just a tiny bit of canola oil. I wipe the oil around with a paper towel and put the pan away.
For carbon steel--like my wok--I treat it exactly the same as the DeBuyer pan. Clean gently, after each use get the pan ripping hot and wipe it down with some oil.
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Is carbon steel harder to season than cast iron?
Carbon steel skillets have a smoother surface, making them quite a bit easier to season. Just one application of oil should be enough to make them nonstick. Newer cast cooking vessels, however, hold their seasonings better because of their rougher texture.Do you season carbon steel the same as cast iron?
Just like cast iron, carbon steel needs to be seasoned\u2014this is the process that polymerizes fats heated in the pan and bonds them to the cooking surface, forming a coating that protects against rust and helps food release more easily. The good news is that seasoning carbon steel is quick and easy.Which wok is better carbon steel or cast iron?
Carbon steel is a good conductor of heat but will lose heat faster. On the other hand, cast iron woks take longer to heat but will retain much of the heat needed to cook your food. The two materials both do a great job in meal preparation, with the difference being in the thermal efficiency of both materials.Does carbon steel get hotter than cast iron?
Cast iron pans have better heat retention. Cast iron cookware is slow to heat up, but retains heat longer than carbon steel. This makes cast iron ideal for pan-frying and roasting.Cast Iron vs. Carbon Steel Skillets — Compare and Contrast.
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Answer 2
The first answer works, but I see some hate for linseed oil. Here is my response to that.
There are two types of linseed oil, you want the food grade (unless you like eating food that tastes like great works of art!). Here is an article that explains the science behind seasoning. Nutshell: You want an oil that will polymerize well without burning too much.
There are a lot of source links in there as well, so you can read as much or little as you want. I haven't had a lot of time to try it yet, but I have some free time next week and may give it a try and post my results here.
If that is a bit too involved, crisco works well for cast iron, and my carbon steel wok is just seasoned from years of use, mostly peanut and/or canola oil with some spicy and sesame oil mixed in. I give them a quick scrub with a plastic brush after each use, rinse, wipe down, and store.
Answer 3
It's sticky because you've gone past the minute amount needed to season. The oil molecules not contacting the steel are polymerizing, but sticking to each other. As the aromatics evaporate, you are literally creating linoleum in your pan ( look up the history of linoleum if you don't believe me). The result is similar to what you find on the inside of a deep fryer door that hasn't been cleaned in a few years. Clean it like a flat top grill. Take to a mirror finish, add a few drops (1/4 tsp at most) of the preferred lipid, wipe it DRY, excess unsaturated fats will become sticky with time. P.S. don't use unsaturated vegetable oils to lubricate kitchen equipment- it will stick increasingly over time and very difficult to remove.
Answer 4
My understanding is that you should always use an animal fat to cure iron pans. I don't entirely understand the chemistry behind it, but using veggie oil will lead to a sticky cure that doesn't hold well. Also, make sure you're heating up your pan a smidge before you add the lard/chicken fat/tallow/whatever.
Sources: Stack Exchange - This article follows the attribution requirements of Stack Exchange and is licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0.
Images: Tim Mossholder, Anete Lusina, Erik Mclean, Caleb Oquendo